Improvement in patterns, measuring, and laying out ladies  dresses



" To all whom 'it ima/y, concern i .that sata gaat am.

el Mf'vBURf-@WSQFNPWICaNEWYQRK. I

n/rPRovnMnN-r m PaT'rnRNs, Maestri-ou, AND LAYING om' LADIES' min-sensi.

The Schedule referred to n these Letters Platent and `making part of the same.

Be it kn'own than, H.M; BURROWS, bf Norwich, Ohenango county, and Stateof New York, have invented fa' new Mode of Cutting and .Fitting Ladies and Misses Dresses; and I dohere jdeolare that the following is a full, complete, and exact description thereof, reference beinghad'to the accompanying drawings,

" and to the letters and figures marked thereon.`

The nature of my invention, consists Vo f a diagram or design, and I will here state its' advantages over all t others.`

First, it vgives a broad front and narrow back, which is indispensable for stylish fit, while all others give a contracted front and broad back.- The method by which the broad front is tted to a narrow back, is Yby "means of small seams taken on shoulder of front, which i no .other rule ofcutting admits of.

`Second, it` 'gives a perfect guide for forming the darts on front, Without taxing the skill or judgment of the cutter. The dots are so graduated as to lit the largest as well as the smallest form, while all other rules leave this entirely to the ,j udgment of the dress-maker.

t To enable others skilled in the art to use my invention,`1 will proceedto ldescribe the mode of measuring and draughting.

In order to cut 'a waist `of a dress, the following t i measures are'obtained:

First. Ghest-measure by 'passing the tape-measure` under the arms, just below shoulder-blade, bringing it tightly over the largest part of the bust.-

Second..Measuret-ightly aronndthe Waist. Y y Third. Place the tape under the arm-pit, and' measure straight down to bottom of waist.

` :These measures beingobtained, to draught a front,

I double the cloth'with selvages together, and. foldy over one and a half inch for hooks and eyes.

Place line A of chart on'the folded edge of the cloth.

\ Suppose a ladys measure to be, chest 34, Waist 24.,` length of waist,from arm-pit to waist, 8.

llirst, dot in upper neckcircle. p Second,` dot holes o at each end of theline, marked short seam. j

Third, dotY in,` 34 upon front shoulder-line; falso-in onchestelinaand 34 on dart-line, and remove chart. Take dart-measure, place the point at the 34 dot,'

` in front of .sh`oulderline, and carry the straight edge to upper dot of neck-circle, (which brings dart-measure' with wrong .side up.) Place dart-measln'exinside the darts,`on front shoulderijline, not above thein, then line from one to the` other', and cut one inch above for Take large arm-size, placeiigure 34 of straight edge of arm-size'upon dot made at34: on front shoulder'- e, and swing it around un'til the dot on chest-line comes into-the slash of arm-size.`

Then line aroundfrom 34 on thelstraightedge of armsize, to shortline on curved `edge of arm-size, on which is found igure34. Take square end of D-measure, place at the lowest part of the curve of arm-size, and measure straight down, and dot at figurel 8 for length of waist.

p 1 f lflace thesquare end of D-measure at the front edge of cloth, with'the straight edge down even with dot made for length of waist, and have a straight line -aoross the width ofcloth for bottom of waistf Next place point of D-measure at dot'on'dart-line, onev and a halt' inch from the edge ofthe cloth at bottom;

mark on curved edge of D-measure from the'point tobottom' of waist; also dot in holesof D-measure; this gives the first dart.

Next place point of D-measnre'ithree and aihalf` inches from top of *first dart, and a half `inch apart at the bottom, and` line on both sides of D-measure for vsecond dart. Reserve-one-fourth of `ladies measure :around the waistfor back.

4In this case, the measure is 24; therefore eighteen inches must be left for fronts. Thereis one andra inch forward of first dart; one inch of this is used" by lappings; the remaininghalf inch added to thehalf'f inch between darts, leaves eight inchesback of second` dart. Make a dot eight inches back of second dart,'ox`1" the' line of bottom of waist; if the cloth is not suf liciently broad, it must be pieced. Place the curve at `thelowest-,Sfl7 dot, (made in marking around arn1size,) and carry down to dot last made at bottom of waist; draw a line, and cut one inch beyond for seam.

Rule forA Draughting Back.

leaving it double.` Place the chart with line A upon the cloth the whole edge. `First .make a line across back of neck from 1 to 2. Now dot in 32 on back shoulderline, which gives two sizes less on back than front, in

order t giveka narrow back. Next dot in133, on linemarked back armsize. Then place lineI B at the y dots, and mark from onev to the other. Now place point" of dart-measure at the 32 dot on back shoulder-line, and carry straight edge to figure 2 dot on back of neck;

draw a line on upper edgeiof measure cut one inch v outside for seam 5 take square end of D-measure, place at lowest dot on back,- and make a'dot atB for length of back. Place Dmeasure with square end toward you,

straight across from dot just made and dot at gure'3.

Line straightacross the cloth, toward you from b ottom of waist. vPlace the point of D-measure at dot on back arm-size and carry to 3` dot, and line'on curved. side; cutone inch outside this line, orunder arm-seam. Y

Take back-form, place small holes in line. with 33 dot on back arm-size, and bring Idown lower partof waist ahalf inch from edge, and line upon the upperedge.

Having described myv mode of cutting and fitting ladies7 and misses dresses, I make the following What I claim as fnew, and `wish to secure by Leti ters Patent of the United States, iw

Therchart, diagram, or design for cutting and fitting ladies and misses dresses, substantially `and for the 

